Everyday Makeup Critiqued by an Esthetician: What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
Everyday Makeup Critiqued by an Esthetician: What Works, What Doesn't, and Why
Most people develop a makeup routine and stick with it for years -- adding a product here, swapping something there, but never really stopping to ask: is this actually working? And is there a better way?
In a recent episode of the Beauty Lab Podcast, Velia -- licensed cosmetologist and co-host -- did her complete everyday makeup routine live while I watched, paused, and explained what was working, what could be improved, and the why behind every step. Here is everything we covered, in the order it happened.
You can find the
custom makeup foundation/skincare here and all the
rest of the products mentioned here.
Step 1: Moisture Layer Sunscreen by RIMAN
Velia starts with Moisture Layer Sunscreen by RIMAN -- broad spectrum SPF 50 with an illuminating finish. No white cast, no oily look, just a healthy glow base before anything else goes on. The active ingredient is Avobenzone 3.0%, which matters because sunscreen actives fall into two main categories: zinc oxide and avobenzone. Some people are genuinely allergic to one or the other, so if sunscreen has ever irritated your skin, check which one you are using and try switching.
Sunscreen always comes first. That is not negotiable.
Step 2: Milk Hydro Grip Primer
Velia applied the Milk Hydro Grip Primer on one half of her face only so we could compare. It is a non-silicone formula that grips without feeling sticky -- a good option for oily skin. What happened partway through foundation application? It pilled.
The likely reason: a layering conflict between the primer and the sunscreen. Certain formulas do not play well together, and the grip ingredient in this primer may have reacted to whatever was already on the skin. It does not mean the primer is bad -- it means formulation compatibility matters.
Primer works by filling in pores and uneven texture so foundation applies more smoothly. If yours pills, try waiting longer after sunscreen before applying it, or try a different formula. And if your skin is already well-moisturized and not particularly oily, you may not need it at all.
Step 3: Sheer Glow BB Cream + IT Cosmetics CC+ Nude Glow
Velia layers two products for her everyday base: the Sheer Glow BB Cream by RIMAN Incellderm and the IT Cosmetics CC+ Nude Glow in Light. She applies both with her fingers, which is completely fine as long as your hands are clean.
The quick breakdown: BB creams typically include skincare ingredients like hydrators, brighteners, or SPF. CC creams focus on color correcting and evening out tone. Neither replaces foundation if you want real coverage -- they are more of a tinted, skin-improving layer that makes skin look better without looking made up.
Step 4: Moderne Beauty Custom Blended Foundation
For days when she wants more coverage, Velia uses a custom blended foundation from Moderne Beauty, applied with a beauty blender on a cushion compact. She spot-treats specific areas rather than doing a full application on top of the BB and CC layer -- a smart way to build coverage only where it is needed without going heavy all over. You can explore custom blends at modernebeauty.com/custom-blends.
Step 5: Tarte Sculpt Tape Contour + Rare Beauty Happy Soul
Velia uses Tarte Sculpt Tape Contour in Soft Bronze for everyday contour, and the Rare Beauty stick in Happy Soul for days when she wants something deeper. She applies both with fingers and a synthetic angled brush. Synthetic brushes matter here -- any time you are working with cream or liquid products, synthetic bristles blend more smoothly and do not absorb the product the way natural bristles do.
She uses whatever is left on the brush after the cheeks to lightly dust the hairline and temples for a natural-looking depth with no extra product. She later sets both with NARS Laguna Bronzing Powder -- the key to making any cream contour last all day.
Step 6: Rare Beauty Liquid Blush in Encourage
Velia has had her Rare Beauty blush in Encourage for nearly two years and is nowhere near empty. That tells you how concentrated it is. Her technique: one dot on the back of the hand, spread slightly, then tap and pat onto the cheeks with a finger. No swiping, no loading a brush.
She later sets it with NARS Power Blush -- and this is the layering trick worth memorizing. Cream or liquid blush underneath, set with a powder blush on top. The result is color that stays all day without fading, without looking dry, and without settling into fine lines. The cream keeps it looking fresh and hydrated. The powder locks it in place. Most people are only using one or the other and wondering why their blush disappears within an hour.
Step 7: Hourglass Ambient Strobe Lighting Powder
Velia uses the Hourglass Ambient Strobe Lighting Powder highlighter, and I want to address this one specifically because it goes against standard advice for mature skin.
The general rule is to avoid powder on mature skin because it settles into fine lines. That is true of many powders -- but not this one. The Hourglass formula actually blurs. In areas where fine lines are beginning to form, Velia has noticed it softens rather than accentuates them.
Application matters too. She uses a large fluffy brush, dips once, and uses that single dip for both cheeks. Her tip: dab both sides before blending so each cheek gets the same amount. If you have tried powder highlighter in the past and found it too heavy or aging, try a larger fluffier brush and a much lighter hand before writing it off.
Step 8: Tarte Glow Wardrobe Highlighting Eye and Cheek Palette
For evening looks or when she wants more dimension, Velia reaches for the Tarte Glow Wardrobe Highlighting Eye and Cheek Palette. Her note: if you swirl the brush all the way around the palette like social media tutorials suggest, it is too much pigment. She lightly taps into each of the four shades separately for a more controlled, buildable result.
Step 9: GrandeLASH-MD Lash Enhancing Serum
Velia uses GrandeLASH-MD Lash Enhancing Serum, normally at night, applied like eyeliner along the lash line. She also tested the GrandeLASH Sensitive formula for eight weeks due to working around chemicals and heat tools all day. Her honest finding: the Sensitive formula did not produce the same growth results. She noticed growth within one week of the regular formula but saw no difference after eight weeks of the Sensitive version.
If you have sensitive eyes, try applying the regular formula at night only so you are not wearing it during the day. You get the full growth benefit with less daytime exposure.
Step 10: GrandeMASCARA Conditioning Peptide Mascara
For everyday use, Velia uses GrandeMASCARA Conditioning Peptide Mascara. Her logic: the peptides need to make contact with the lash to condition and support growth. If you use a lash primer first, you are coating the lash before the peptides can reach it -- which works against the health benefit you are paying for.
For bolder looks, she switches to the Tarte Opening Act Lash Primer followed by a separate mascara. The primer is designed for volume and drama -- just not what you reach for when the goal is healthy, growing lashes.
Step 11: Eyeliner Options
Velia has two eyeliners but did not apply them in this episode since she had just put on the lash serum. For reference: the Sephora Collection 12HR Colorful Waterproof Retractable Eyeliner in Dark Brown for her standard everyday line, and the NYX Professional Makeup Vivid Rich Mechanical Liner Pencil in a taupey metallic finish for a softer shadow effect underneath. She uses the Sephora liner for a defined line and the NYX when she wants something that reads more like a shadow than an eyeliner.
Step 12: Fenty Beauty Bright Fix Eye Brightener Concealer
Velia uses the Fenty Beauty Bright Fix Eye Brightener Concealer occasionally for under-eye coverage. The shade she has is slightly peachy -- which is exactly right. Peachy undertones cancel blue, and blue is what shows up in under-eye shadows. A concealer that matches your exact skin tone will cover darkness less effectively than one with a warm or peachy cast.
She mentioned that her glasses cover most of the under-eye area day to day, but for photos or events, the peachy concealer makes a real visible difference.
Step 13: Sephora 12HR Translucent Setting Powder
Velia finishes with the Sephora 12HR Translucent Setting Powder -- applied after all creams and liquids are fully blended. She applies it lightly only where she wants less shine, not all over. If you have oily skin, all over makes sense. If you have normal or dry skin, targeted application in the T-zone and anywhere that tends to get shiny is more than enough. Over-powdering dry or mature skin is one of the fastest ways to make makeup look cakey.
The powder also sets everything so it does not transfer or melt as your skin warms up throughout the day.












