Your Nighttime Skincare Routine: What an Esthetician Does Before Bed (And the Simplified Version)

Your Nighttime Skincare Routine: What an Esthetician Does Before Bed (And the Simplified Version)

Before You Cleanse: Oil-Based Eye Makeup Remover

If you wear eyeliner -- especially a magnetic eyeliner -- or any mascara that does not come off easily, do not rely on your cleanser alone to remove it. I use an oil-based eye makeup remover on a cotton pad first, before I even step into the shower. This takes off the stubborn residue so your cleanser is not fighting it. Starting with clean eyes also means you are not dragging eye makeup across the rest of your face during cleansing.

Step 1: Double Cleanse

I double cleanse every night. The first cleanse uses a facial oil -- no foam, no lather -- which dissolves the remaining makeup, sunscreen, and surface buildup. Then I do a second cleanse with a foamy cleanser suited to my combination skin to actually clean the skin underneath.

The logic: the first cleanse removes what is on the surface. The second cleanse cleans the skin itself. Doing only one cleanse often means your serums and treatments are trying to absorb through a layer of product residue, which significantly reduces how well they work.

Step 2: Toner

After cleansing, I use a toner, usually in a spray bottle, to restore the skin's pH. Cleansing raises the pH of your skin, and a toner brings it back down to where it needs to be for everything that comes next to absorb properly. It is a quick step that makes the rest of your routine more effective.

Step 3: Exosomes with Retinaldehyde

Every single night I apply an exosome serum that contains retinaldehyde. If you have heard me talk about vitamin A forms in past episodes, you know retinaldehyde is my preferred form -- it converts to retinoic acid more efficiently than retinol with significantly less irritation. My exosome formula delivers it along with growth factors that support cellular repair and regeneration while I sleep.

This step does not change between my hydrating nights and my exfoliating nights. It is a constant.

My Two Rotating Routines

After the exosome step, my routine splits into two depending on what my skin needs.

Hydrating Nights

On most nights, I follow the exosome with a facial oil mist. I have combination skin but I have noticed -- especially as I have gotten older and moved through perimenopause -- that I can feel dehydrated even when I am still somewhat oily. Remember: dehydration means lack of water, not lack of oil. You can have oily skin and still be dehydrated. The oil mist helps address that without making my skin greasy.

After that I layer a booster for additional minerals and peptides, then a hydrating serum, and finish with a moisturizer suited to my skin type. It sounds like a lot of steps, but the cleansing happens in the shower, and from toner to moisturizer the whole thing takes about four minutes.

Exfoliating Nights (Every Four Days)

Every four nights I replace the hydrating layers with either a retinol or an exfoliating AHA or BHA product. After the exosome step, I apply whichever active I am rotating in, followed by a hyaluronic serum and moisturizer.

An important note: I accidentally used two of my retinol products on the same night because the bottles looked similar. My skin was noticeably dry for the next few days. Do not do that. One active at a time.

On exfoliating nights I still use a hyaluronic serum and moisturizer to keep the barrier supported. You are increasing cellular turnover, which is the goal, but you want to make sure you are not stripping the skin in the process.

How Often Should You Use Retinol?

It depends on the product. I use a product called Remedy that contains kojic acid, licorice root, and niacinamide -- the label says it is fine to use nightly, and for some people it is. But I personally found that using it every night was too much for my skin and I started to feel dry, so I backed off to every four days.

The general guidance: if you are new to retinol, start every other night or every two to three nights and watch how your skin responds over the following days. If you start flaking or feeling unusually dry, you are over-exfoliating. Pull back. If your skin adjusts well, you can build from there.

Retinaldehyde used within an exosome or serum formula, like what I use nightly, is different -- it is gentler in delivery and designed for daily use. Standalone retinols and stronger actives are the ones to introduce carefully.

The Simplified Version

If my full routine sounds like a lot, here is where to start: double cleanse, tone, serum, moisturize. That is the foundation.

For the serum, choose based on your skin type:

• Dry or mature skin: hyaluronic acid or a hydrating peptide serum
• Combination or oily skin: something with azelaic acid or a clarifying ingredient
• Sensitive skin: look for chamomile, aloe, or other anti-inflammatory ingredients

Once that four-step routine feels easy and consistent, you can start layering in additional steps.

Not Sure What Your Skin Type Is?

I have a free skin type quiz linked in the show notes. It asks a few simple questions and tells you your skin type, the hero ingredients that will benefit you most, and what professional treatment options to look into. It takes under two minutes. My co-host Velia's husband took it and found it helpful -- it is designed to be that accessible. 

Other items mentioned can be found here.